Exit Watch

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A. Lange & Söhne Datograph, Image: Fratello Watches

The title of this article (“Exit Watch”) might confuse you a bit if you are not active in the online watch community. It basically refers to your final watch, your ultimate timepiece. If you have a collection of watches , an “Exit Watch” would be the one with which to end your 'passion'. The Holy Grail, the watch that stops making you crave other watches, or it is simply the watch that you will keep forever while you sell or store all the others.
Where the phrase “Exit Watch” came from is not entirely clear, but it is widely used in forums and blogs to indicate that a certain watch might be 'worthy' to end-up with in the end. This “Exit Watch” can be completely different from person to person, of course. Where a stainless steel Rolex Submariner might be the “Exit Watch” for one, it could be an A. Lange & Söhne Datograph for others.
In the end, it is about the watch that you could picture yourself wearing the rest of your life. It doesn't necessarily mean it is the most expensive watch out there, or a Grande Complication watch, it might even be a vintage time-only watch.

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It will get worse as you become a more advanced watch collector over time. You will find that your “Exit Watch” needs a little sister or brother on the side. An A. Lange & Söhne Datograph is a beautiful timepiece, but not suitable for all purposes. You will still find yourself reaching out for that divers watch or other type of sports watch when you want to go for a swim or for a watch that is a bit more child-resistant or holiday-resistant. Does an “Exit Watch” need to be an all-rounder? In the perfect situation, it should be. But what watch is the perfect all-rounder that you can wear forever?
You see, there are a lot of things to consider when choosing the perfect “Exit Watch”:
– Design
Make sure it is a design that either fits your life style (classic, sporty, military, or even Bauhaus). An iconic design would be a safe bet ( Nautilus , Calatrava , Submariner, Day-Date , Navitimer , Tank , Reverso , etc.) but perhaps also not exciting enough for some. In any case, a design should be timeless. Only a few watches get away with typical designs that can easily be linked to a certain era.
– Movement
Almost without exception, go for a mechanical movement. However, please make sure that it can be serviced or repaired at all times or at least in the remaining time you have here. So, if an independent watchmaking brand might be your “Exit Watch”, ensure yourself that the watch can be serviced or repaired in – for example – 25 years from now. Sometimes, the movements used in the watches of these independent watchmakers are supplied by other companies, try to find out if they are able to service your watch in the future if necessary.
Also, if you prefer a watch with a complication (or more than one), make sure you are able to have it serviced periodically. A watch with mechanical complications sound very interesting, but also keep in mind whether it will fit your (daily) activities.
– Materials
Gold/steel might have been very fashionable in the 1980s, today it is considered to be tacky by many watch enthusiasts. Choose wisely, white gold, rose gold, or simply stainless steel might not be as exotic as ceramic or forged carbon, but surely is timeless.
– Case diameter
Whereas 45mm isn't uncommon for sports watches right now, this was about 1 centimeter less 60 years ago. Now, 45mm is not for everyone and neither is 35mm, so don't pick a watch you think you might not be comfortable with over time. That is easier said than done, but keep in mind that the average diameter is approx. 40-41mm these days. More important, have a look at the design of the watch and ask yourself whether the design fits the size. For example, a Royal Oak 'Jumbo' is only 39mm and was considered large in 1972. However, it still looks good. The Rolex sports models didn't change much over the last few decades and 40mm is still spot-on for most of their models. However, give it some thought before you pull the trigger on an “Exit Watch”.
Whatever watch you choose to be your “Exit Watch”, make sure you will enjoy it! Don't let it become a Safe Queen. On Chrono24, you will find some suggestions for watch brands, watch types (Classics, Best Sellers, Divers, etc.), or watches with certain complications (Tourbillon, Perpetual Calendar, Chronograph, etc.) that might give you some inspiration.
There is one downside of the “Exit Watch” principle (or definition, as you wish). There is none. Once you have decided to go for an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 'Jumbo' as an “Exit Watch” for example, it is a very realistic scenario that another “Exit Watch” will appear at the horizon as soon as you strap the Royal Oak on your wrist.
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